I love Enoshima, and last year I bought a surfboard from this guy.
Turns out this guy started the first surfers association about 20 years ago.
He's traveled the globe hitting the dopiest surf spots, before they were crowded.
He's like in his 60's, and he's mellow.
Then I started seeing him on my line up.
Swell after swell he would just sit their looking off at the horizon
A couple of times he gave me advice about my stance, or my position on the wave
The adviced helped, but after 30 minutes passed and he didn't go for any waves. it was strange
Finally this HUGE wave came out of no where. Me and the other 50 guys in the lineup tried to catch it. and failed
but this old dude managed to catch it and hold on to it.
it was sick.
Therefore, for my final project I would like interview this man about his life. Specifically finding out what he did before the surf shop, the association, and how all of these projects came about.
Last week I went and asked if he would be available for the interview and he said it would be fine.
Now I need to draft some questions
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
